Today… err… yesterday was exciting. Not only were we as far west as we would ever be while in Canada and still on land, but we were finally out of the Avalanche risk area!
If you’re wondering what we mean, let us explain: Throughout the mountains, we kept seeing signs alerting us to the fact that the Avalanche Area had ended. We remarked, however, that we were never alerted that we were about to enter such an area. We asked others we encountered about this, tourists and locals, and they all remarked, “You know, you’re right! I’ve never noticed that!” Given that it is summer, we figure we can forgive the oversight on the part of the public servants charged with road signage. Back to our day…
We were booked on a day long tour that was to involve:
- approximately 4 hours on a small vessel;
- the potential to see wildlife such as whales, seals, etc.; and,
- a walk through old growth forests to a hot spring that dumps into the Pacific.
Our trip was provided Jamie’s Whaling Station, located in Tofino, about 30 to 40 min north of our AirBNB in Ucluelet. Jamie’s location is easy to find.
At this point, we should note that the Avalance related signs had been happily replaced by signs alerting us that we were in a Tsuami Hazard Area and other signs telling us the way to the Tsunami Evac Route! Sheesh!
Anyway, we checked in at Jamie’s and then went for a short stroll around Tofino’s Harbour, which is quite picturesque.
Can’t get much more picturesque than this! 
Really cool wall 
We also got really close to the guts of the place, including peering into the water near the docs and old ships. Less picturesque.
Under a dock 
All kinds of stuff stuck to the hull of this derelict ship 
Spot the Jelly!
Funniest was this sculpture of a seal. From one angle, seal. From the other, poop?
Seal 
Poop?
Anyway, it was finally time to depart. We were on Eagle 44, an aluminum boat with an inboard diesel and covered seating for 12. We set out looking for wildlife on the way to Hotsprings Cove and we got a little lucky! We came upon a group of seals hanging about on a small island and they tolerated the boat being close for a while.
Other things we learned? There are actual wild cows on Meares Island. Yes, wild cows. The working theory is some escaped from farmers in the early 1800s and have reproduced. Apparently, they are too big for a puma to take down, are quite aggressive, and feast on seaweed at low tide.
The highlight however, was the whales! Yes, whales as in two of them!
Grey Whale 
Another dorsal fin 
Spout! 
Two Grey Whales!
Sorry about the image quality. It was frustrating to not have the right tool (telephoto) for the job and to have to make do with a 55mm. Still, this was REALLY exciting for us an everyone on the boat.
As the whales left us, we resumed course for the Hot Springs Cove, which is a Parks Canada facility and is accessible only boat or sea plane. Once we arrived, we walked the long collection boardwalks and stairs to get there, where we changed and prepared for soak.
Sea Plane 
It was really hot! 
Coastline just beyond the springs 
More coastline
While that might sound idyllic, it wasn’t. The place was packed so finding a place to soak was very hard. Adding to the challenge were the jagged rocks that needed to be navigated to move from change rooms to the various spots with deep water. Some of these rocks were slick and steep, making it a less than trivial task, particularly if you’re not used to walking barefoot outside (e.g., me). Still with caution, it was doable.
Later on, we heard it mentioned that some new rocks had fallen into the crevice where the pools are found, making it harder to move around and filling in previous soak spots. On the one hand, that explains the challenges. On the other, I’m glad we weren’t there when the large rocks decided to join the party.
To be clear, we didn’t regret signing-up for this, but it wasn’t as nice as we had hoped and that wasn’t the fault of anyone in particular.
We called time on the springs and decided to start back to the docks a bit early. Along the way, we ran into some more wildlife! Slugs!
Hi! Look at my buddy down there, too. 
See him? 
Mr. Multi-Colour 
Looking him in the err… eye?
The boardwalk itself is pretty cool. In addition to navigating some pretty gnarly terrain, it features some really nice woodworking and what we surmise are sponsored planks as part of some kind of fundraiser. Here are a few of the ones I enjoyed.
Arriving back at the docks, I watched our captain help two travellers unload their sea kayaks. The two men were from California and were embarking on a three day paddle back to Tofino, camping on the islands along the way. Very cool. We also saw this beautiful dog that belonged to one of the residents of the island. Totally friendly, it seems to spend its days hanging with travellers at the docks.
As everyone arrived we got back on the boat and our captain informed us that there was more wildlife to come! First up? Sea Otters!
Adorable 
and Smart
We were told that these little critters have the densest fur on any animal, something like 150 follicles per square cm (I might have part of the per wrong, but the 150 is correct, for sure). Their fur is so dense that the water doesn’t actually get to their skin, it can hold air for buoyancy. and the otters, unlike all other marine mammals, have no blubber layer. Entertainment and education, that’s how we roll at BGR.
The next bit was truly spectacular… a male humpback whale was totally obsessed with another whale watching vessel. Based on radio banter while we watched the show, it became clear that the male was courting the vessel. The captain of the ship that was the subject of its affections remarked, “I have pics of parts of a humpback I never thought I would see.” Use your imagination. Whatever was going on, it netted us a great opportunity to see this amazing animal, aka “the Horny Humpback.”
Again, these were best effort with the equipment I have right now. Anyone want to start a collection to get me a Sony FE 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 GM OSS lens?
While the budding romance continued, we had to leave. Still radio banter indicated that the whale was no following its love interest–not good. 🙁
When we finally arrived back in Tofino, we were unsure whether we were tired or energized, but we were definitely in need of a shower to get the sulphur from the springs off us and in need of a good meal. See how emaciated we look?!
That brings us to the end of Day 12, aka August 8, 2019. Check back soon for our next update.